The Instagram dream of windsurfing, kiting, or foiling from a cruising yacht into a perfect 20 knots of wind sounds like Nirvana. But if you’ve ever actually tried it, you know it’s not quite as straightforward as it seems.

Boats, heavy foil components, and massive windsurf rigs do not naturally mix. Launching a 120-litre slalom board or a kite off the stern of a swinging 45-foot yacht is a logistical challenge. If you want to seamlessly blend cruising with high-wind watersports, you just need a good system. Without one, you risk kinking your sails, denting your deck, or finding yourself drifting downwind of your only way home.

Here is how we make the dream actually work at All Winds.

1. Location and The Anchor Trust Factor

You can’t just drop the hook anywhere the wind is blowing. You really need one of two setups:

• The Beachside Marina: The easiest option. Find a marina physically right next to a launch beach. The yacht is safely tied up, there are no dinghy logistics, and you just walk the gear over. Good examples of this setup are Maccinaggio in Corsica, San Vincenzo and Cecina in Tuscany or Vieste in Appulia.
• The Protected but Windy Anchorage: It sounds like a contradiction, but that is exactly what us wind junkies are looking for! If you want to launch directly from the boat, look for a headland, land spit, or lagoon where the anchorage is protected from the sea swell (so the boat isn’t rolling violently, the chop is flattened and you won’t have shock loads on your anchor), but clean wind still blows across the water. Pantera on Dugi Otok in Croatia during the off-season is perfect for this, as is Vasiliki in Greece.

Apps like Windy can be great for this. By zooming in, you can actually see the topography of the area you are looking at and with the different model comparisons it’s possible to get a good idea of what you can expect along with swell and how it might affect your chosen anchorage.

The Anchor Reality Check: Do not underestimate the risk of leaving your yacht unattended in high winds. If you are on a charter boat with questionable ground tackle, do not leave the boat to its own devices in 25+ knots of wind. Launching directly from the boat requires absolute trust in your anchor. If you don’t have that trust, head to a marina. (18 to 20 knots is enough for most wind sports, and for a decent anchor with a good amount of chain out and a snubber, it is manageable. Don’t go in stronger winds until you have your system dialled in at 15 to 20 knots! Remember, when the wind speed doubles, the wind resistance quadruples and the sea state will start shock loading your anchor!)

2. The Tetris Game: Storing Gear

You have to be creative—and careful—about storage.

• Kitesurfing: Easily the most boat-friendly. Most kite gear is highly compressible and fits easily into a standard cockpit locker or a spare cabin.
• Wing Foiling: Small wing boards might fit in a deep locker or be tied securely in the dinghy on deck. However, foil components are heavy hazards. While carbon is sharp, aluminium foil masts and fuselages are incredibly dense. Dropping an aluminium fuselage will instantly crack your gelcoat. They need dedicated, padded protection.
• Windsurfing: This is the biggest logistical challenge. Small wave boards (<100L) can usually be manoeuvred below deck. Larger gear, like a 120-litre slalom board, simply won’t fit down a companionway. Unless you have a catamaran with a trampoline, large boards must go on deck—usually in heavy-duty quiver bags strapped securely to the guardrails, rigged so they cannot be washed overboard or damage the stanchions.

3. The Swim Platform Setup

Rigging on grass is easy. Rigging on the back of a boat requires the right boat geometry, good technique and a solid system. The ideal setup is an open rear cockpit with a large, flat, fold-down swim platform. (Note: On a very large yacht of 50+ feet, you can sometimes rig on the foredeck. But on a typical 40-foot cruiser, you will be fighting the mast, shrouds, and anchor windlass.)

• Winging: Modern swim platforms are great for inflating wings and assembling foils. Just keep an eye on your hardware—dropping a foil screw through the teak deck grating into the ocean ruins your session before it begins.
• Windsurfing (The In-Water Trick): Rigging larger sails on the back of a boat requires care to avoid kinking the monofilm. Keep the sail rolled up as you carefully slide the mast up. Crucially, ensure the two-piece mast is pushed completely together at the ferrule. If there is a gap, the mast will snap the second you apply downhaul tension. Once the mast is secure, drop the rig into the water. Sit on the swim platform, tension the downhaul while the sail is floating alongside, attach the boom, connect the board, and start directly from the stern.
• Kitesurfing: Ideally, take the dinghy to the beach to rig. If you have to prep on the boat, you can carefully walk the lines up the side deck, around the forestay, and back down to untangle them, or you can float the bar downwind in the water to separate the lines.

4. Launching and Landing

Because the boat is anchored facing directly into the wind, the hull, sprayhood, and bimini create a massive dead zone of turbulent air directly behind the swim platform.

• The Launch: You cannot launch a kite directly behind the boat. You have to drift the lines and the kite well out to the side, completely clear of the wind shadow. If you are windsurfing on a low-volume sinker board, attempting a beach start directly off the swim platform is tricky—you’ll have zero wind power in your sail until you drift backwards and clear the stern.
• Getting Back Aboard: Approaching a fibreglass yacht in 25 knots of wind can be intimidating. Slow right down as you approach the transom and drop the sail, kite, or wing just as you make contact. Alternatively, if you want a softer target, tie a floating line to a fender and trail it 10 to 15 meters off the stern. Aim for the fender, grab the line, drop your gear, and pull yourself in.

5. The Golden Rule: Stay Upwind

When you launch from a beach, you can afford to do the “walk of shame” downwind. When you launch from a boat, downwind might be the far side of a shallow lagoon, a rocky lee shore, or the open ocean. Always stay upwind of the boat. If the wind suddenly drops or you break gear, you must be able to drift or slowly paddle downwind back to your own swim platform.

6. The Dinghy Rescue

Having the dinghy ready is a good idea, but try to rescue someone against 20+ knots of wind in a tiny inflatable dinghy with a 2.2HP outboard, and you’ll quickly realise its limits. Here is the reality of most charter tenders: those little outboards usually don’t have a neutral gear (the prop just stops at idle), and they definitely don’t have reverse. Combine that with a flat-bottomed dinghy that blows across the water like a leaf, and they are actually way more difficult to manoeuvre in a blow than a proper RIB with a 10HP engine.

If a rescue is necessary:

• Always approach a person in the water from downwind.
• Keep the propeller away from the person and the gear. Since you likely don’t have a true neutral, hit the kill switch before trying to make physical contact.
• If you are picking up a kiter, pull the lines aboard before restarting the outboard so you don’t stall the engine when you need it most.

7. “Skipper” Off the Boat

While you might often do this in calm conditions to go for a walk, a coffee or dinner ashore, doing this to go and do some windsports is by its nature a different kettle of fish. Conditions that allow for good windsports automatically put extra stress on your ground tackle by their nature. If you are the legally designated skipper, remember: you are still the skipper, even if you are a mile away strapped to your kite. While the rest of the crew might enjoy watching the session, if there is any doubt in your mind about the boat dragging its anchor, you need to stay close enough to act immediately, or simply skip the session.

8. The Pack-Down

The fastest way to ruin a cruising yacht’s interior is to drag wet, sandy gear down the companionway. But here is the biggest misconception: Do not waste your precious freshwater budget rinsing your sails and kites. Fresh water packed away in a dark locker breeds mildew; salt water does not. If your gear is used regularly in salt water, it doesn’t need a fresh rinse.

• The Real Enemy is Sand: Sand scratches carbon, monofilm, and gelcoat. Give your gear a quick wash in the ocean to get the sand off before bringing it aboard.
• Zip Maintenance: Make sure there is no heavy salt residue jamming your board bag zippers. Keep them clean and well-lubricated.
• Let everything air-dry in the cockpit before it gets packed away.

We don’t like to leave gear tied to the stern of the boat overnight; it’s a prop wrap waiting to happen if the anchor drags overnight or you have to move for some unforeseen reason. Derig and store the gear when you’re finished to reduce the risk of something going pear-shaped overnight.

The Payoff

Blending windsports with cruising isn’t always easy, and the logistics are rarely as glamorous as the social media reels make them look. It requires discipline, good storage planning, and absolute trust in your ground tackle.

But when you get the system right—when you drop the hook in a perfectly protected bay, rig your gear without a hitch, and step off your own swim platform into 25 knots of clean wind miles away from the crowded beaches—there is absolutely nothing else like it in the world. It is the ultimate freedom.

At All Winds Adventures, we don’t just teach you how to pass a sailing exam; we teach you how to actually use your boat as a base camp for the sports you love. If you want to dial in your boat-handling and safety protocols to manage these kinds of sessions, join us for a Take the Helm Skipper Coaching Week in Croatia. Or, if you just want to show up, step on a board, and let a professional worry about the anchor, book a Private Charter with us this season.

Leave the “always” and “never” at the dock, pack your gear, and let’s go find some wind. If you require some equipment for Windsurfing. Kiting or Winging then get in touch, we are suppliers for North, Naish, Slingshot, and much more.

The post Windsurfing, Kiting, and Foiling from a Cruising Yacht: Reality vs. Instagram appeared first on All Winds Adventures.

TL;DR Summary for Skippers:

• The Golden Rule: The best beacon is the one you never use. “One hand for the ship, one hand for yourself.” Don’t fall in.
• The Tether Warning: Standard tethers can drown you if towed at 6 knots. Upgrade to a release system like the TeamO BackTow.
• The Charter Blindspot: An AIS beacon is useless if the boat you fall off has its AIS receiver turned off. (a massive problem on charter yachts).
• How AIS Beacons Work: You cannot program an AIS target. All personal AIS beacons transmit a hardcoded 972 MMSI. The programmable MMSI is only for triggering your boat’s DSC VHF alarm.
• Mixing Experience Levels: If you are an expert skipper sailing with a novice, mix your tech. Give the novice the AIS-MOB (with DSC), and you wear the PLB3. Read below to find out exactly why.

The marine electronics industry loves to sell us peace of mind in little plastic boxes. We strap them to our lifejackets, check the blinking green battery lights, and tell ourselves that if everything goes wrong, pushing a button will summon a helicopter. (If you are within range!)

But out on a rolling sea in the pitch black, things are rarely that simple.

For years running Swiss Alpine Adventure, we preached the “holy trinity” of off-piste skiing: a transceiver, shovel, and probe. It is a no-brainer because every skier knows the mountain rescue helicopter will arrive too late. Your survival depends entirely on “companion rescue”—your friends finding you in minutes.

Yet, when we step onto a yacht, that logic vanishes. We happily drop thousands on chartplotters but hesitate over a personal beacon, assuming “institutional rescue” (the Coast Guard) will magically appear. But falling overboard at 2:00 AM is no different than getting buried in an avalanche. Your best chance of survival isn’t a helicopter; it’s the people you left behind on the boat. When purchasing our own devices, this is the thought that made me stop thinking and actually buy them.

If you walk into a chandlery today to buy a personal rescue beacon, you will be hit with an alphabet soup of acronyms: PLB, AIS-MOB, DSC, EPIRB. Buying the wrong one for your specific crew dynamic could mean you are screaming for help when no one is listening.

Whether you are preparing your own boat or packing your kit bag for a bareboat charter, here is the pragmatic guide to electronic lifesavers.

1. The Ultimate Rule: Don’t Lose Connection

Your Primary Life Support: Your brain and your grip. “One hand for the boat, one hand for yourself.” Keep your centre of gravity low, move carefully, and do not fall in.

Your Secondary Life Support: Your tether. Clipping on is frequently overlooked, but if things go wrong, it is what might keep you from becoming a search-and-rescue statistic.

• The Tether Problem: Standard tethers have a fatal flaw. If you fall over the side while the boat is doing 6 knots, being towed face down will drown you. We use the TeamO BackTow lifejacket, which you can release to tow you safely on your back, buying your crew critical time to stop the boat.

Autopilot Remotes: While marketing might suggest that some advanced autopilot remote control systems can turn the boat head-to-wind if you go overboard, these systems are rarely used on cruising boats—they are usually the territory of short-handed offshore racers. Even if you have one, the reality is that you are unlikely to be able to swim after a drifting, 45-foot yacht in a swell. If your physical connection to the boat is broken, you are in a desperate survival situation.

2. The Harsh Reality of Rescue Beacons

Rescue beacons are not magic bullets. They require you to actually have the device on your person, and in certain cases, you must be conscious to manually activate it.

To understand the stakes, look at two real-world extremes:

The Success (The Vendée Globe 2020): When Kevin Escoffier’s IMOCA 60 PRB snapped in half and sank in seconds in the Southern Ocean, his 406MHz EPIRB alerted Race Direction 8,000 miles away. His local AIS beacon helped fellow racer Jean Le Cam get to the right grid square. But in 5-meter waves and darkness, Le Cam still lost sight of him for hours. What ultimately allowed Le Cam to make the physical pickup? He saw the flashing light on Escoffier’s liferaft. Electronics bring the cavalry to the postcode; visual aids and seamanship finish the job.

The Tragedy (The ARC Transatlantic 2024): In December 2024, a highly experienced sailor went overboard from a Volvo 70 in 25-30 knots of wind mid-Atlantic. He was reportedly wearing an auto-inflating lifejacket equipped with a personal AIS beacon. Despite an immediate search by his crew and nearby yachts, he was never found.

Electronics give you a fighting chance, but they do not guarantee a rescue. Here is how to choose the right tool for the fight.

3. The Charter Boat Blindspot

Before you spend €400+ on an AIS-MOB, you need to understand that many charter boats do not have AIS receivers, or they are turned off!

When we were test-sailing our own yacht, All Winds, before buying her, the AIS was turned off and wasn’t even working properly when we switched it on. Over the years, we’ve even had to sneakily dive into the settings on bareboat charters to activate the AIS for night passages.

If you fall off a boat with no AIS receiver, your personal AIS beacon is transmitting to a blank screen. Your personal safety is only as good as the mother ship’s receiving equipment or another boat with AIS being close enough to help.

4. AIS-MOB Coding: How the Tech Actually Works

There is a massive misconception that you need to program your boat’s MMSI into an AIS beacon so your chartplotter recognises it. That is not how the technology works.

• AIS is Hardcoded: Every personal AIS-MOB device is hardcoded at the factory with an MMSI that begins with 972. You cannot change this. 972 is the international code for “Person in the water.” When a chartplotter receives a 972 signal, it overrides normal display rules, sounds an alarm, and drops a red circle with an ‘X’ on the screen. (Incidentally, if you see an MMSI number on the AIS beginning with “974”, it is an EPIRB).
• DSC is Programmable: Devices like the Ocean Signal MOB1 or MOB2 also feature DSC (Digital Selective Calling). This is where you program your mother ship’s MMSI. When activated, the device uses the DSC radio frequency to call your specific boat and trigger an ear-piercing alarm on your VHF radio to wake up the crew.
• The Second-Hand Warning (Class M Compliance): A new law enacted in January 2025 requires Personal AISs to be “Class M” compliant, which means they must have both a DSC sender and receiver. This plays a big role if you plan on buying a second-hand Personal AIS that may no longer meet the current legal standard.

5. The Big Misconception: The PLB3 Trade-off

If you have the budget, you might look at the top-tier Ocean Signal RescueME PLB3 and think: “It combines Satellite (406MHz) and AIS. I’ll buy that; it does everything!”

I recently spent time on the phone directly with Ocean Signal technical support, and here is the hard truth: The PLB3 does NOT have DSC. Because it packs so much satellite tech into a tiny package, you sacrifice the ability to trigger that closed-loop VHF alarm on your mother ship. It will call the Coast Guard via satellite, and it will put your 972 target on the chartplotter via AIS, but it will not set off your boat’s VHF radio alarm.

The Administrative Nightmare (A Real-World Warning): PLBs operate on global satellite networks, meaning they are hardcoded to specific country codes. If you buy a device abroad, you must get it factory-reprogrammed before you can legally register it in your home country. (in many countries it is a legal requirement to register your PLB)

When my own PLB3 arrived, I called the Swiss distributor to get it reprogrammed. Incredibly, they had no idea about the country coding rules and told me they couldn’t do it. I ended up having to inform the national distributor that they needed to take a factory training course just to be able to legally reprogram my device! (this was in the process of being corrected at the time of writing) Don’t leave your beacon admin to the day before you cast off.

The Pragmatic Workaround: If you buy a PLB abroad and it arrives hardcoded to a foreign country just days before you cast off, you don’t have to sail unprotected. The global Cospas-Sarsat system routes alerts based on the beacon’s embedded country code, not your passport. As a temporary fix, you can legally register the device on that specific country’s national database (e.g., the French CNES registry if it has a French code) using your actual emergency contact details. If activated, the alert simply routes to that country’s MRCC first, who will verify the emergency and immediately pass the coordination to the local Coast Guard sector you are floating in. It adds a minor administrative hop, but it gets you off the dock safely until you can get the device factory-reprogrammed at home.

6. Garmin inReach and similar devices

The Garmin inReach & Satellite Messenger Disclaimer It is worth addressing devices like the Garmin inReach, as many sailors wonder if they can replace a dedicated personal rescue beacon. While the inReach is a fantastic piece of kit, it is a Satellite Messenger, not a purpose-built MOB survival tool.

Yes, it has a dedicated SOS button, but that is where the similarities end.

• Activation & Ergonomics: It cannot be automated. To get a signal out, you have to physically hold the device up out of the water to maintain a view of the satellites.
• Durability: While it is water-resistant (typically IPX7, meaning 1 meter for 30 minutes), it is not built for prolonged immersion in a heavy sea state.
• Transmission Power: An inReach transmits at roughly 1.5 watts on the commercial Iridium network. A true PLB blasts a 5-watt signal on the dedicated Cospas-Sarsat military/SAR network.
• No Local Rescue: Crucially, an inReach has no AIS component. It cannot alert the boat you just fell off.

Where the inReach actually shines is two-way communication. If you are in a liferaft or dealing with a dismasting, being able to text rescue services the specific details of your emergency (or reassure your family) is invaluable. Keep it in your grab bag, use it to pull localised weather forecasts or text a shore-based router, but do not clip it to your lifejacket expecting it to be your primary man-overboard beacon.

7. The Unvarnished PLB vs AIS Buying Guide: Which One Do You Need?

Most articles stop at the tech specs. But at All Winds Adventures, we look at the human element. The beacon you buy should depend entirely on the crew you sail with.

Scenario A: The Solo Sailor or Remote Cruiser

You need a PLB or the hybrid PLB3. If you fall off, your boat is sailing away without you. There is no one at the helm to look at the chartplotter. You need the global Coast Guard.

Scenario B: The Fully Crewed Boat in Busy Waters

If you are racing in the Solent or chartering with six competent mates in the Med, get an AIS-MOB with DSC (like the MOB1 or MOB2). If you fall in, it sets off the VHF alarm, your crew sees your exact 972 location on the screen, and they come get you now, rather than waiting for a helicopter.

Scenario C: The Cruising Couple (Mixing Experience Levels)

This is the most common scenario we see: a couple sailing together where one person has more experience handling emergencies single-handed. Even if both sailors are highly competent (like my partner Karin, who routinely takes solo night watches), we still recommend mixing your technology.

The more experienced person wears the PLB3: If they fall in, the person left aboard may be overwhelmed trying to manage the boat and execute a recovery single-handed in rough weather. The PLB3 ensures the Cospas-Sarsat satellite network is immediately alerting the MRCC to coordinate a rescue, taking that massive burden off the person left aboard, while simultaneously putting the AIS target on the screen for passing traffic. You should, however, be aware that there is no DSC alert sent to local boats.

The less experienced sailor wears the AIS-MOB (with DSC): If they fall in, the DSC alarm wakes the more experienced skipper up. The skipper has the skills to track the 972 target on the plotter, execute a quick-stop manoeuvre, and pull off a textbook MOB recovery alone.

The Bottom Line: Gear Doesn’t Replace Drills

The most expensive beacon in the world is utterly useless if the person left on board doesn’t know how to heave-to, mark a waypoint, or throw a throwing line, or if you have not thought about how you might recover an unresponsive, incapacitated or exhausted person from the water.

You cannot buy competence in a chandlery.

If you want to make sure your crew actually knows what to do when the DSC alarms go off, that is exactly why we run our coaching trips. We don’t just teach you what buttons to press; we take you out on the water, throw a fender overboard, and make you execute the recovery until it becomes muscle memory.

Need Advice or Looking to Get Your Hands on a Beacon? The marine electronics market is a minefield of changing regulations and confusing tech specs. If you’re prepping for a bareboat charter and aren’t sure what to buy, or if you are ready to purchase a new, fully compliant unit, drop us a line. As a registered dealer, we’re always happy to talk safety gear and make sure you have exactly what you need for your trip.

Coming Summer 2026: Swiss AIS-MOB Rentals Based in Switzerland and not ready to drop 500 CHF on a unit for a single week on the water? We are launching a dedicated AIS-MOB rental programme this summer. You’ll be able to rent a Class M compliant beacon that clips straight to your lifejacket for a fraction of the retail price. If you are interested in renting one for your next charter, get in touch now so we can put you on the radar as we build out the fleet.

The post PLB vs AIS (MOBs): The Honest Guide to Electronic Lifesavers appeared first on All Winds Adventures.

I recently jumped into the water fully kitted out for a Sea Survival Course. There is nothing quite like the reassurance of feeling your life jacket inflate instantly when you hit the water. But after the course, I had a job to do: re-arm and repack my jacket. It’s not that complicated to service your life jacket, but if you are unsure about doing it yourself, it is best to bring it to a professional who will do it for you.

While I was servicing my deployed jacket, I decided to inspect my partner Karin’s jacket. It had been sitting in the locker and looked brand new. What I found was a perfect example of why you can’t trust a jacket based on looks alone.

While my jacket needed service because I fired it, Karin’s needed service because it had silently expired. Here is exactly what we found and how you can perform these checks at home. We are using the TeamO Ocean 275 and Offshore 170 Back Tow Life Jackets.

1. The CO₂ Cylinder: The Weight Test

The green indicator clip isn’t enough. You must unscrew the cylinder and weigh it. I had two cylinders to compare: the empty one from my course, and the “full” one from storage.

How to calculate the weight

Every cylinder has the Gross Weight (cylinder + gas) stamped on the metal body. You need a precise digital kitchen scale.

• The Deployed Cylinder (Fail): We weighed the used 60g cylinder. The stamp said 236.53g, but the scale read 175g. That missing 61g is the CO₂ gas that kept me afloat.
• The Stored Cylinder (Pass): On the other jacket, we removed the 38g cylinder. The stamp read 149.24g, and the scale showed 149g. This is within the safe tolerance (usually +/- 2g).

The Rule: If the weight on the scales is significantly lower than the stamped weight, the gas has escaped. Replace it immediately.

2. The “Hidden” Expiry Dates

This was the big catch on the stored jacket. Most modern life jackets use an auto-hydrostatic release or a chemical firing bobbin (like the UML Pro-Sensor).

Check the Firing Mechanism

These mechanisms contain a chemical element that degrades over time, even in dry storage.

• Our Finding: The firing unit on Karin’s jacket was stamped 12/2023. It was strictly out of date and potentially unsafe, despite never touching the water.

Check the Safety Light

Don’t forget the peripherals.

• Our Finding: Our safety light was dated 06/2026. While it technically had 6 months left, it wasn’t functioning correctly. Since we were ordering a re-arm kit, we replaced the light to start the season with a clean slate.

3. The 24-Hour Leak Test

Checking the mechanics is only half the battle; you must ensure the bladder holds air.

The “No Mouth” Rule

Important: Never use your mouth to orally inflate a life jacket for a test. The moisture from your breath introduces bacteria and mildew into the lung of the jacket. Over time, this rots the fabric and seams from the inside out.

The Test Procedure

1. Open the jacket casing to reveal the yellow/orange bladder.
2. Use a hand pump (like a dinghy pump) attached to the oral inflation tube.
3. Inflate until firm (do not over-pressurise).
4. Leave it for 24 hours.

If the jacket is still firm the next day, it is airtight. If it has softened, you likely have a puncture or a leaky valve.

Reassemble, Pack, and Go Sailing

Once your jacket has passed all the tests, it’s time to get it ready for sea.

First, ensure all the air is completely out of the bladder. Squeeze it tightly while pressing the valve in the oral inflation tube; if any air remains, you will struggle to close the jacket.

Next, screw on the release mechanism and check the firing pin. Ensure the pin in the mechanism is retracted before you screw in the new CO₂ cylinder. If the pin is protruding, it will pierce the new bottle immediately, wasting the cylinder.

Once the firing mechanism and the CO₂ cylinder are screwed in, you should see two green indicators on the front of the housing holding the release bobbin and CO₂ cylinder. If either of these indicators are red, then you need to check the corresponding element that it is screwed in correctly or that it has not already been deployed.

Finally, flake the jacket lungs neatly behind the release mechanism and the oral inflation tube, attach your light (if replaced), and close up the outer casing (zipper or velcro).

Summary

Whether you’ve just pulled the cord on a survival course or your gear has been sitting all winter quietly, the pre-season maintenance rule is the same: Check the weight, check the date, and inflate.

It’s not that complicated to service your life jacket, but if you are unsure about doing it yourself, it is best to bring it to a professional who will do it for you.

Don’t wait until the season has started to find out if your gear works.

The post Is Your Life Jacket Actually Safe? DIY Service and Inflation Test Guide appeared first on All Winds Adventures.

The tides are the breath of the ocean; understanding them is about more than just knowing when high water is; it’s about efficiency, safety, and making sure you always have water under your keel. For sailors used to the steady levels of Lake Zurich, Lake Zug or Lake Geneva, the massive tidal ranges of the Atlantic can be a shock. Understanding tides is one of the single biggest steps in converting your lake skills into offshore competence.

For those who want a refresher—or if you missed our recent talk on tides—here is a summary of the key concepts we covered.

Why Tides Matter

Tides affect us in two ways: vertically (height) and horizontally (stream/current).

• The Positive: They provide “free horsepower” when the stream is with you and allow access to shallow harbours at high water.
• The Negative: They can leave you high and dry if you miscalculate, slow you down if you fight the current, or create dangerous sea states like “wind-over-tide”.

What Causes Tides? (The Earth, Moon & Sun)

Tides are essentially a tug of war between the Earth, Moon, and Sun.

• The Primary Driver: The Moon has the biggest influence because it is closer to Earth. Gravity pulls the water into a “bulge” on the side facing the Moon, and then pulls the Earth into this bulge, leaving a corresponding high-tide bulge on the far side of the planet.
• The Sun’s Role: While less powerful than the Moon regarding tides, the Sun reinforces or counteracts the Moon’s pull depending on their alignment.

What is the difference between Spring and Neap Tides?

Understanding the phase of the moon is your first step in predicting the tidal range.

• Spring Tides (Big Range): Occur at New Moon & Full Moon. The Sun, Moon, and Earth line up, combining their gravity to create higher highs and lower lows.
• Neap Tides (Small Range): Occur at the Quarter Moons. The Sun and Moon are at 90° to each other, partially cancelling out their forces. This results in lower high tides and higher low tides.

Tide Tables

Tide Tables are published by most ports (or can be looked up online) and contain the information of High and Low Water and the tidal heights of both High and Low Water. Be careful with the times as they are usually in the local times and do not adjust for “summer time”. In the summertime, you may have to add an hour to get the correct time.

Navigation Essentials: Height & Depth

When planning a passage, remember that charts use Chart Datum (CD), which is usually the Lowest Astronomical Tide (LAT)—the lowest the tide is predicted to fall under average conditions.

• The Formula: Actual Depth = Charted Depth + Height of Tide.
• Drying Heights: Watch out for underlined numbers on the chart; these are rocks or banks that dry out at LAT.

Glossary of Essential Tidal Terms

• LAT: Lowest Astronomical Tide (lowest possible tide under normal meteorological conditions)
• Chart Datum: Depth of Water (or Drying Heights) at LAT.
• MHWS/MLWS: Mean High/Low Water Springs
• MHWN/MLWN: Mean High/Low Water Neaps
• Spring Range (average): Is the range between MHWS and MLWS
• Neap Range (average): Is the range between MHWN and MLWN
• Depth of Water: Tidal height + Depth Below Chart Datum or Tidal Height – Drying Height
• HAT: Highest Astronomical Tide (Highest tide possible under normal meteorological conditions. Clearing height under bridges are from HAT)
• Height of Light: Height of the light signal above MHWS

The Rule of Twelfths (How to calculate tidal heights?)

For semi-diurnal tides (like we have in Europe/Atlantic), the tide doesn’t rise at a constant speed. It follows a bell curve. To estimate the height at a specific hour, use the Rule of Twelfths:

1st Hour: Rises 1/12th of the range
2nd Hour: Rises 2/12ths of the range
3rd & 4th Hours: Rises 3/12ths (max flow)
5th Hour: Slows to 2/12ths
6th Hour: Finishes with 1/12th

Note: The Rule of Twelfths is an estimation for semi-diurnal tides and should not replace official tide tables for critical clearance

Rule of 12ths Calculator

Estimate tidal height between High and Low water.

Low Water (m)

High Water (m)

Total Tidal Range: 3.0m

Tide flows fastest during Hour 3 & 4

Tide vs. Current: Understanding Tidal Streams

Never ignore the current. Tidal streams can significantly alter your ETA and safety.

• Tidal Diamonds: Look for the magenta diamonds on your chart. These refer to a table giving you the “Set” (direction) and “Rate” (speed) of the current for each hour relative to High Water.
• Tidal Atlases: Visual guides with arrows. Thicker arrows mean stronger currents. Remember that numbers like “12, 23” on these charts often mean 1.2 knots at Neaps and 2.3 knots at Springs.

Meteorological Effects

Meteorology: Tide tables are based only on the movements of celestial bodies (astronomy). They cannot predict the weather. Real-time conditions can change the water level significantly:

• Air Pressure: High pressure pushes down on the sea surface, lowering the water level. Low pressure (depressions) allows the water to rise. A difference of 30 hectopascals can change the sea level by ~30cm (one foot).
• Wind: (Storm Surges): Strong, sustained winds blowing onshore can “pile up” water, creating higher-than-predicted tides. Conversely, offshore winds can push water away, resulting in unexpectedly low tides—a danger for shallow moorings.

Dangers to Watch For

1. Wind over Tide: When the wind blows against the tidal stream, it creates steep, choppy, and dangerous waves.
2. Tidal Races & Overfalls: Fast water squeezed around headlands or flowing over uneven seabeds can cause turbulence. Avoid these when the tide is running hard.

Summary

Safe navigation relies on understanding these cycles. Know your Moon phase (Springs vs. Neaps), check your stream (diamonds and atlases), and always ensure you have enough water under the keel (Rule of Twelfths).

Want to put this into practice or learn more? Join us on one of our activities this coming summer.

The post Sailing Tides Explained: A Guide to Springs, Neaps & Not Getting Stranded appeared first on All Winds Adventures.

A well-tuned autopilot is like having an extra hand on deck. It never gets tired, hungry, or seasick. However, it does consume power, so it’s vital to use it efficiently.

Many sailors simply press “Auto” and hope for the best. To truly sail efficiently and safely, you need to master your sailing autopilot modes relative to your point of sail and the sea state.

Whether you are fitting out your own vessel or chartering with All Winds Adventures, here is a guide to how your pilot thinks.

1. The Basics: Steering by Compass

The most fundamental autopilot relies on a Fluxgate Compass. This is found on everything from small day-sailors with tiller pilots to large yachts.

When engaged, it locks onto your current magnetic heading. It controls the tiller or wheel to keep the bow pointing in that direction.

• The Pro: It is simple, reliable, and fits almost any boat.
• The Con: It is blind to the elements. If the wind shifts 20 degrees, the boat keeps going straight. Your sails will eventually luff or stall.

The Reality: You must constantly monitor the wind. You have to manually adjust the course to keep the sails happy. Furthermore, simple tiller pilots lack power; they are best used only in benign conditions.

2. The Upgrade: Steer to Apparent Wind

Modern charter boats (and well-equipped private vessels) use integrated systems. These networks connect the instruments to the Chart Plotter or Multi-function Displays (MFDs).

If your system feeds wind data from the masthead unit into the network (like NMEA2000 or Raymarine Seatalk), you unlock a powerful feature: Apparent Wind Mode.

This is a game-changer once the sails are up. The boat can now “see” the wind. As the wind gusts, lulls, or shifts, the pilot steers to keep the telltales flying perfectly. Instead of steering a compass heading (e.g., 270° West), the pilot steers to a specific wind angle (e.g., 45° off the starboard bow).

• The Benefit: This is freedom. If the wind gradually shifts, the boat alters course to follow it. This keeps your sails efficient and your speed high.
• The Watch-out: You are no longer sailing a straight line on the map. You must navigate carefully. Ensure a wind shift doesn’t push you into shallow water or a shipping lane.

3. The Advanced Setup: Steering to True Wind

To unlock the “Holy Trinity” of pilot options, you need one more data point: Speed Through Water.

If your boat has a working speed transducer (Log), the system’s brain can calculate the True Wind. This allows the pilot to steer based on the actual wind direction, regardless of boat speed.

So, which mode should you use?

The Cheatsheet: Which Mode for Which Moment?

Here is the protocol we use at All Winds Adventures to ensure safety and performance.

Scenario A: Motoring or Motor-Sailing

Mode: Compass / Heading Hold. When sails are down, or you are punching through a calm, aerodynamic efficiency doesn’t matter. You want the shortest distance between two points. Set the pilot to a compass heading that maintains your desired Course Over Ground (COG).

Scenario B: Upwind & Reaching (Apparent Wind < 90°)

Mode: Apparent Wind When sailing close-hauled or on a beam reach, your speed usually remains steady. Steer to Apparent Wind. This ensures the boat hugs the “groove” perfectly. If the wind lifts you, the pilot follows; if it heads you, the pilot bears away to keep the sails full.

Scenario C: Downwind (True Wind > 130°)

Mode: True Wind When sailing deeper than 130 degrees, or when the sails go into “Push” mode, use True Wind Mode.

We have done this intuitively for years. Pip Hare, of Vendée Globe fame, wrote an article recommending this exact strategy some years ago. While her article discusses advanced racing systems, the physics apply to everyone.

The Downwind Danger: Why “Apparent” Fails in Waves

Why shouldn’t you use Apparent Wind when sailing downwind? It comes down to physics.

1. Imagine you are sailing downwind. A large wave picks up the stern.
2. The boat surfs and accelerates rapidly.
3. As boat speed increases, the Apparent Wind physically shifts forward (towards the bow).
4. If the pilot is in Apparent Wind Mode, it detects this shift. It thinks the boat is turning too far upwind.
5. To “correct” this, the pilot bears away (steers away from the wind).

The Risk: By bearing away while accelerating down a wave, the pilot can steer you into an accidental Gybe.

This dynamic causes broaches and ripped sails on IMOCA 60s in the Ocean Race. However, you don’t need a carbon fibre racing machine for this to happen. The physics are identical on a standard cruising yacht.

The Solution: Use True Wind Mode. The autopilot will ignore the temporary wind shift caused by surfing. It holds the course relative to the actual wind, preventing a dangerous gybe.

A Note on Safety

Remember: The Pilot is only an aid to navigation. Do not trust it blindly.

You must still keep a lookout and avoid traffic, reefs, and headlands. Always be ready to jump to the helm and hit “Standby.”

I learned this lesson the hard way 30 years ago off the west coast of Ireland. We were sailing double-handed. My crew-mate was asleep, and I felt peckish. I checked the horizon, saw it was clear, and went below to make a sandwich.

Within seconds, the pilot gave up the ghost. The boat tacked aggressively. By the time I scrambled back to the helm, the jib was backed, and we were threatening to gybe. I regained control just in time to save the rig. I had to wait for my crew-mate to wake up before I finally got that sandwich!

Understanding these systems allows you to relax and enjoy the view. If you want to master boat handling or try these systems on the water, check out our latest charter availability at All Winds Adventures.

The post Yacht Autopilot Guide: How to Master Your Silent Crew Member appeared first on All Winds Adventures.

There’s something special about naming a boat. It’s not just a label — it’s a reflection of what it represents.
For us, All Winds is more than a yacht. It’s the symbol of fulfilling a lifelong dream, our love for adventure, and the next step in our journey.

All Winds is a 2021 Beneteau Oceanis 41.1. A yacht that strikes the perfect balance between performance, comfort, and pure sailing joy. Spacious yet agile, she’s built for those who want to feel the wind, explore new horizons, and experience life at sea in its truest form.

All Winds: Further Details (click here)

With an overall length of 12.43 metres (41 feet), All Winds comfortably accommodates up to 8 people across three spacious cabins.

The Oceanis 41.1 is the perfect yacht for exploring Croatia’s stunning coastline. Her generous cockpit provides ample space for the whole crew to relax and enjoy evenings together on deck after a great day on the water.

Our Oceanis 41.1 “All Winds”, based in Rogoznica, Croatia, combines smart design with impressive sailing performance. The mast, set slightly further aft, ensures excellent balance and handling under sail — ideal for both relaxed cruising and more spirited sailing days.

The large swim platform with integrated stairs makes it easy to access the sea, while additional floor storage compartments add a touch of comfort and practicality on board.

Check out the equipment list – you’ll be impressed! With her battened mainsail, All Winds delivers pure sailing pleasure without limits.

Specifications

• Berths: 6 +2
• Cabins: 3
• Max Crew: 8
• S. A. /Displacement: 21
• Length: 12.43m/41′
• Beam: 4.2m/13.8′
• Draft: 2.2m/7.2′
• Build: 2021
• Displacement: 7.84t
• Motor: Yanmar 40HP
• Water: 570l
• Fuel: 200l

Equipmment

• Mainsail: Slab Reefing (40m)
• Genoa: Furling (44m)
• Gennaker: Optional
• GPS: Yes
• Plotter: Raymarine Axiom (x2)
• Autohelm: Raymarine
• Wind Sensors: Raymarine
• Electric Winch: Main Halyard
• Bow Thruster: Yes
• Bimini: Yes
• Spray Hood: Yes
• Swim Platform : Yes
• Heating: Yes
• Hot Water: Engine & Shore Power
• Electric Toilets: Yes
• USB Charge Ports: Yes
• Solar Panel: Yes
• Bow Thruster: Yes
• Inflatable Lifejackets: Yes

Extras

• Base Pack: 250 Euro (Mandatory)
• Deposit: 1500 Euro (refunded if no damage)
• Outboard: 150 Euro/week
• SUP: 100 Euro/week
• Gennaker: 200 Euro/week
• Skipper: 200 Euro/day
• Early Check-in: 100 Euro

The Story Behind the Name

When the idea for this chapter first began to take shape, we had just moved to a small Swiss village called Allenwinden, which, quite fittingly, translates as “All Winds.”

It felt like fate: A gentle reminder that every wind, from every direction, can carry you somewhere new — if you’re open to the journey.

So when it came time to name our yacht, there was really only one choice. All Winds perfectly captures both where we are and who we are: Guided by curiosity, powered by nature, and ready to embrace whatever wind comes our way.

Why Charter from Marina Frapa, Rogoznica?

Situated in the heart of the Dalmatian Coast, Marina Frapa serves as the ultimate gateway for a versatile sailing holiday. From our base in Rogoznica, you are perfectly positioned between the rugged Kornati National Park to the north and the iconic islands of Hvar and Vis to the south. This central location offers the unique flexibility to plan your itinerary around the prevailing weather—allowing you to seek the calm shelter of the inshore islands or venture to remote, quieter archipelagos further afield when the winds are in your favor.

How to Join Us Aboard All Winds in Croatia

• Bareboat Charter (Set Your Own Course):
  • Availability: Private (bareboat) charters of All Winds begin in June 2026. (Quick, she is booking up fast!)
  • Service: Ideal for experienced sailors who hold the necessary licenses and want the freedom to explore the Croatian Adriatic at their own pace.
• Guided Coaching Adventures (Learn & Explore):
  • Availability: Limited spaces are available from Autumn 2026 for our first sailing adventure. A larger programme of coaching and adventure sailing weeks will follow in Spring and Autumn 2027.
  • Service: Designed for those who want to combine learning, exploration, and the joy of life at sea under the expert guidance of the All Winds Adventures team.

Can’t Wait? Global Charter Options Available Now

For those who can’t wait to set sail or need a different type of yacht:

We can immediately help you charter another yacht through our trusted global partners. As expert brokers, we can source bigger, smaller, or different model boats in any destination worldwide, including the Mediterranean, the Caribbean, and beyond. Whether it’s your first sailing holiday or your next big voyage, we’ll help you find the perfect boat and destination now.

A New Chapter on the Horizon

All Winds isn’t just our yacht—it’s a floating reflection of everything we believe in: freedom, discovery, and the beauty of being powered by nature.

We’ve spent years guiding adventures across mountains and lakes. Now, we’re inviting you to join us where our story began—on the water. Together, let’s chase All Winds—and see where they take us.

Follow our journey on [Instagram/Facebook] or sign up for our newsletter. Be the first to know when All Winds sets sail.

For more information about our Charter offers, take a look at our Charter page or contact us directly. For more articles about Yacht Charter see our Step by Step guide to booking your first Charter or How to Prepare for your first Bareboat Charter.

The post Meet “All Winds”: Your Yacht for Sailing Adventures in Croatia appeared first on All Winds Adventures.

Everyone likes to get great holiday snaps, but sometimes it’s nice to get something a bit different. Technology advancements now mean that the kind of photographs previously only possible by professional photographers are now achievable by the average person.

The GoPole Dome is a simple product that can provide stunning photos if you are willing to take a little time and effort to figure it out. I recently purchased one before going on holiday in the hope of taking some memorable holiday snaps. The dome is a Plexiglas half sphere which mounts a GoPro camera at a distance from the Plexiglas screen. This allows you to capture over/under photographs while taking part in watersports.

Before using the dome, I did online research to try and figure out how best to utilise it. In the end, I discovered a lot of the techniques I tried based on online advice did not provide the desired results. However, with a bit of trial and error, I did get some shots I was happy with, but ultimately, there is still a lot of luck involved.

Mounting the camera, the camera clamps securely into a Frame at the back of the dome. The clamping force pushes the camera into the dome, providing a seal to ensure that no water gets into the device. I also used a GoPole Bobber floating mount to attach to the dome and make it easy to point and shoot when out in the water.

When everything is assembled, the system feels quite firm. First impressions in the water were positive, except that with lots of sunlight, it is not easy to see the screen. This is not a huge problem, as the screen is obscured by water when taking over/under pictures anyway.

A few of the tips I read online suggested trying to shoot at an angle, either up or down, to do 70/30 style images, but when we tried doing this it was almost impossible to frame the pictures in the desired way. We found it easier to do 50/50 images for a few reasons. Firstly, it’s easier to frame something either over or underwater (while still having scenery above the surface in the frame. Secondly, due to water usually not being glassy flat it was easier to salvage something out of pictures when a piece of chop washed across the dome.

Drops on the globe can be quite unwanted when shooting in rougher water or once the dome has been fully submerged at any point. We found that briefly spitting on the globe and rubbing it in and then dunking the dome in the water immediately before taking a photo created the best pictures.

Once you take pictures, you need to be quite careful not to let water into the dome, as usually there will be some dripping once the seal between the camera and the dome is broken.

We also noticed that the dome itself is quite easy to scratch. I inadvertently touched the dome with a SUP paddle so gently that I didn’t even notice doing it, and there was a quite noticeable scratch on the lens right in the frame. It’s quite important to protect the Dome. It might not be a bad idea to maybe make a water case for the dome out of an old wetsuit.

One other issue we noticed when experimenting with the dome is that when shooting side on to the sun the image can be backlit, causing a reflection of the back of the dome in the picture you take. It’s best to position yourself to shoot down the sun if at all possible when using the dome.

Summary

A great piece of equipment which compliments a GoPro, allowing you to take pictures that only a few years ago would have required some very expensive equipment to shoot. Somewhat delicate but well worth the money.

Feel free to contact us or leave a comment for further information.

The post GoPole Dome – Review appeared first on All Winds Adventures.

Switzerland’s many beautiful lakes make it one of the best places in Europe to enjoy Stand Up Paddle (SUP). Calm morning water, breathtaking mountain views and easy access to the shore make SUP the perfect way to connect with nature — whether you’re a first-timer or a seasoned paddler.

At All Winds Adventures, we’ve watched SUP evolve from a surfside curiosity to one of the most accessible water sports around.

My SUP Story – From Waves to Lakes

I first stood on a SUP board back in the early 2000s when it was emerging as a new way to ride waves. At that time, I thought it was great for catching mellow surf, but I couldn’t imagine why anyone would want to paddle it on flat water.

Fast forward ten years, and I found myself eating my words. Looking for a way to spend more time on the water when there wasn’t enough wind to windsurf, I started exploring Swiss lakes on a SUP.

Standing gives you a better view than sitting in a kayak, you use more muscles to balance, and with today’s inflatable SUP boards, storage and transport are easy — pump up in 5–10 minutes and you’re ready to go.

Now, I enjoy SUPing on flat water even more than I ever expected when I first tried it all those years ago.

SUP Regulations in Switzerland

Before heading out, make sure you know the rules and safety regulations for Stand Up Paddle in Switzerland. Here are the key points every paddler should remember:

• Stay out of swimming zones: Inside the yellow buoys is for swimmers only. Entering with a board can result in fines.
• Avoid harbours, marina entrances, and ferry landings: These areas are reserved for motorboats and passenger vessels.
• Wear a buoyancy aid when paddling more than 300 m from shore. It’s legally required — and safer.
• Carry a white light after sunset that can be seen from all directions.
• Keep 25 m distance from reed-covered shorelines to protect wildlife habitats.

SUP Safety Tips

Stand Up Paddleboarding is one of the safest water sports — but a little common sense goes a long way:

1. Always wear a leash. Your board is your best flotation device. Losing it in wind or current can mean a long, tiring swim.
2. Dress for the conditions. Cold water? Wear a wetsuit or drysuit.
3. Learn recovery skills. Practice getting back on your board in chest-deep water before heading far from shore.
4. Avoid offshore winds. If the wind blows from land to lake, it will push you away quickly. Return early if it starts to strengthen.
5. Supervise children and check your inflatable board for leaks before launching.
6. Use the correct leash type on rivers.
7. Take a lesson if you’re new to SUP. You’ll gain technique and safety awareness that make the experience far more enjoyable.

At All Winds Adventures, we offer private coaching — perfect for beginners or anyone wanting to improve confidence and technique.

Choosing the Right SUP Board

Inflatable

Inflatable boards are ideal for Swiss conditions — easy to store, lightweight, and portable by car or train.
Performance is slightly less than hard boards, but for recreational paddling, that’s a fair trade-off.

Typical inflatable SUP sizes:

• 10’6″ All-round boards: Very stable, ideal for beginners and casual paddling.
• 11’6″ Touring boards: Slightly faster and track straighter — great for longer outings or carrying a drybag.
• 12’6″ Touring/Race style: Narrower, faster, but less stable. Best for intermediate paddlers.
• 14′ Performance boards: Designed for distance and efficiency, but less manoeuvrable.

For most paddlers, an 11’6″ inflatable SUP offers the best balance of stability and glide.

Hard Boards

Hard boards deliver more performance and efficiency, especially for long distances or waves, but they take up more storage space and are harder to transport.

• Race boards (≈14 ft): Fast but narrow and less stable — ideal for fitness paddlers.
• Wave SUPs (7’10″–10’): Short, manoeuvrable, and designed for surf. On lakes, they’re less efficient but fun if you want crossover use for travel.

If you’re choosing one hard board to use both on Swiss lakes and in small surf, aim for 8’6″–10’ length and 130 L+ volume.

Summary

Stand Up Paddleboarding is a fantastic way to explore the lakes of Switzerland, stay fit, and enjoy nature from a new perspective.
With the right board and basic safety awareness, almost anyone can do it.

Inflatable SUPs offer portability and great value, while hard boards bring performance and speed.
Whatever you choose, the key is simply to get on the water — and start paddling.

At All Winds Adventures, we offer:

SUP Equipment Sales — from trusted brands like Naish, STX, North, Slingshot & Mystic

SUP Coaching & Taster Sessions — learn with professional guidance

SUP Rentals — take a board for a weekend or your holiday

Feel free to contact us if you would like any further information regarding Stand Up Paddle in Switzerland.

The post Stand Up Paddle (SUP) in Switzerland appeared first on All Winds Adventures.